• 2003 Bmw X5 Door Panel

Hello ake53, As you will see from Pics 10 and 11 of Brian's first post, the lock actuator is a 'sealed unit'. So, if you can still open/close and lock the door with the central locking, the cleaning/lubricating solution discussed in this thread, may not be for you. Nevertheless, you will have to follow Brian's instructions to remove it and replace it. I suggest you find out if you can quickly source a spare one (maybe from a motor wrecker) and be prepared to swap it over, if you can't fix your one. Maybe your problem relates to the point where the key barrel joins the actuator unit?

You will have to remove it and see. Hi all, first off a big thank you to this forum and its members. The assistance you have provided has been invaluable. And am therefore please to contribute as well.

PASSENGER DOOR WONT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE First determine by listening if the actuator is working or not. In my case it was not.

So there was no signal from the door module (located on passenger door window switch) to the actuator. I could therefore not open the door from either the inside or outside. THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE DOOR CARD INSITU IN THIS CASE. What you need to do is “hot wire “ the actuator; Remove the door switch, using a flat tool, preferably plastic. Undo all the connectors on the bottom of the unit.

The white connector feeds power to the actuator motors. You need to find the BLUE, WHITE and BLACK wires on this connector (PINS 12, 6 & 7) The BLUE is the common wire with WHITE and BLACK going to the motors in the actuator. LOCK: +12V to the WHITE/ BLACK wire and –ve/ ground on the BLUE wire UNLOCK: +12V on the BLUE wire and –ve/ground on the WHITE/ BLACK wire You have to reverse polarity to LOCK and UNLOCK. TIP: I simply used a small jumper wire and used the existing +12V and –ve available on the big black connector to pulse the actuator.

WARNING: There are BUS cables amongst these – SO PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU ARE COMPETENT AND ABSOLUTELY SURE OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING!! PM if I have not been clear on any issue and I can also send you a copy of the schematic. I will try to load pics, but don’t really know how. First thanks to this thread.

Two posts here really helped me. The one above, and the one about pulling fuses 20 and 24.

I changed the drivers side lock actuator. I was testing the door and then tried to lock and unlock it and it got stuck. The double lock would not disengage. With the fuse trick i got the door open. The post above clued me in that the window switch had something to do with the locks too, even though there is not lock switch on it. What I believe caused my door to be stuck locked was testing it without the window switch unit plugged back in.

Now the fix worked as advertised. So to sum up, DO NOT TEST THE LOCK UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PLUGGED BACK IN. First thanks to this thread. Two posts here really helped me. The one above, and the one about pulling fuses 20 and 24. I changed the drivers side lock actuator.

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I was testing the door and then tried to lock and unlock it and it got stuck. The double lock would not disengage. With the fuse trick i got the door open. The post above clued me in that the window switch had something to do with the locks too, even though there is not lock switch on it. What I believe caused my door to be stuck locked was testing it without the window switch unit plugged back in.

Now the fix worked as advertised. So to sum up, DO NOT TEST THE LOCK UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PLUGGED BACK IN. 'fuse trick'?? If working on the drivers side lock you will need to next remove the key cylinder. Pop off the blind plug in the door jamb (centre piece first) and remove the hex screw as shown below. Pry out the key cylinder (the pic shows the passenger door so this is a cylinder blank).

Now remove the 3 T30 torx screws to release the lock. Rotate the lock in the door cavity to access and remove the wiring connector Remove the lock from the door cavity as shown. Here is a pic of the now removed lock. Does the key cylinder just slide back in or is it tricky? My outside door handle slides down some when resting.

I can push it back up and it stays but I'd like to tighten whats loose. I have never had mine apart and don't want to take apart something I can't reassemble. I watched a video on YouTube and think it may be the bolt that slides into the horseshoe shaped holder that is loose. Maybe the nut is loose? My E46 one just slid apart and right back together.

2003 Bmw X5 Door Panel

BTW I have only had the X a month now but my door locks, unlocks, and opens just fine. See pic of drooping handle.

I did oil change yesterday and after that I test the car and check the oil level, cleared codes, locked the door with key remote. This morning, wife took the car out and called me telling me that she cannot lock the driver side of door with the remote, even insert the key in the key hole won't lock/unlock the door, she was able to lock/unlock the rest 3 doors fine with the remote.

I came home, unlocked other doors, get in from passenger side, open the driver side door from inside, I was thinking it might be a dead key battery or need reset/reinitialized the key so the first thing I did was reinitialized the key, looks like reinitialization procedure went fine but the driver door still won't react. I also tried the lock/unlock button in the center console, same thing, other 3 doors all reacted but just not the driver side door.

I also checked the fuse #53 in the trunk, looks fine, unplug is, no door did not react, plug it back, except driver side door, all other doors reacted again. So at this point, I don't think it is the problem of the key. I tried to use the key in the key hole, with some force, I can unlock, unlock the door now, but it felt like something not engage properly. What could it be? Last time something like this happened to me, ie, door lock not locking or unlocking, I found the problem to be quite simple.

My door lock actuator box had 'unclipped' itself off of the holding bracket. When I saw mine just dangling around inside there, I removed the bracket and the actuator, snapped it back into place, and put everything back inside the door. To ensure that the snap fittings won't somehow unsnap out again, I put a couple thin zip ties around the actuator body and the bracket to keep everything in place.