1. Atv Usb Creator 3.0.2 Windows

Its not booting patchstick on bootup even with a approved USB stick. Transcend JetFlash V30 - 2 GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive TS2GJFV30 (Black) Ive tried the 3.0.1 dmg and 3.0.2 dmg but it wont boot the hack?

Ive done as instructed: same info from many guides. Ive hacked psp, xbox, ps1 and others in past so steps are similar to other devices. I also tried holding down MENU and - to boot recovery. I still get normal apple load up. Any ideas on my next step. I hate to pay aflash 40 bucks for something I can do for free. Thx Ive tried 6 different USB/sd cards and no patchstick boot.

I bought this ATV for sole purpose to get XBMC on it. It has the 3.0.2 update on it thsi I installed as soon as I got it home.

Embarrassed to say I caved and bought Atv flash. I tried 8 usb drives with free hack but it failed everytime and it was driving me crazy so paid 40 bucks and got a simple download to put on USB drive. I tried 3 times with 2 different usb and it was the drive that I put Atv flash on twice that worked. Not sure why my attempts kept failing and i tried the drive that worked many times with free hack. TY for your tips and ideas. But to stream my movie collection to my TV WIRELESSLY is the bomb and with XBMC looking tight Im all smiles.

So you erased the internal disk of your AppleTV and want to restore AppleTV OS? It happened to me; playing with a 1 st generation, installing (and thus wiping) a suitable version. Only to find out that I goofed up and had to go back to the original OS to change some video settings. Yes I was playing with and (highly recommend both!) In a I described a method that uses a Windows tool from, which needs Windows and a network connection. In this article however I will show you how to do it without a network connection, for Windows, Linux and MacOS X. DOWNLOAD - AppleTV OS Restore IMG (v2) Filename: factoryrestore2.img.zip Version: 2.3.1 Size: 196.3 MiB Date: July 8, 2013 Step 2 – Writing the Image to an USB Stick In this step we will write a Restore Image for your AppleTV OS to an USB Stick.

For this purpose you should have at least a 1 Gb USB Stick, but any size larger than that will work just fine. Windows Windows users will first have to decompress the.ZIP file to get the.IMG file. A tool like, or can do this for you. After decompression you should have either a 536,870,912 bytes IMG file (for both versions!). Once unzipped, use a tool like to restore the IMG file to your USB stick. Download it from the (recommended) or directly from Tweaking 4All. DOWNLOAD - Win32diskimager Platform: Windows Filename: win32diskimager-v0.9-binary.zip Version: 0.9 Size: 5.4 MiB Date: January 6, 2014 After downloading Win32 Disk Imager, start it and click the folder icon to select the.IMG file (Image File).

Next select the proper drive (Device) and when you’re very sure about your choices, click “ Write“. CAUTION: Make sure you selected the correct drive, since it will be completely overwritten!! This process will take a little bit, and once complete proceed to Step 3. Lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 9 Apr 4 16: 57 ata-Ubuntu1332bit- 0SSDZASYTHJXX3YMXAFMGRSB -. /sda lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 10 Apr 4 16: 57 ata-Ubuntu1332bit- 0SSDZASYTHJXX3YMXAFMGRSB-part1 -. /sda1 lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 10 Apr 4 16: 57 ata-Ubuntu1332bit- 0SSDZASYTHJXX3YMXAFMGRSB-part2 -.

/sda2 lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 10 Apr 4 16: 57 ata-Ubuntu1332bit- 0SSDZASYTHJXX3YMXAFMGRSB-part5 -. /sda5 lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 9 Apr 4 16: 57 ata-VirtualDVD-ROM1-31415B265 -. /sr0 lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 9 May 25 08:08 usb-LexarUSBFlashDriveAAJHWTC45P2TPINQ- 0: 0 -. /sdb lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 10 May 25 08:08 usb-LexarUSBFlashDriveAAJHWTC45P2TPINQ- 0: 0-part1 -. /sdb1 lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 10 May 25 08:08 usb-LexarUSBFlashDriveAAJHWTC45P2TPINQ- 0: 0-part2 -.

/sdb2 Since I know that my USB Stick is a Lexar, you will see right that the main device is called “ sdb” (line 6 – highlighted). This is the device we need – do not pick one of the partitions (sbd1, sdb2, etc). We need the root device! The proper name (path) for this device would be “ /dev/sdb” (add “/dev/” in front of the device you found). Tip: Once you determine which is the USB drive, remove it and run the same statement again to see if the drive actually disappeared from the list.

Once determined which one is your USB Stick, we will need to use dd to restore the IMG file to the USB Stick. CAUTION: This will wipe the entire device, so make absolutely sure you’ve chosen the right device! Dd bs=4m if=factoryrestore3.img of= /dev /usbdrive Where you will need to replace the “ factoryrestore3.img” with the filename of the IMG file you’re using, and “ /dev/usbdrive” with the device of the USB drive you wanted. In some cases you might need to run this with dd in front of the example code. Your Admin password will be asked before proceeding. To make the process faster: use the raw device of the USB Stick.

This is done by adding an “ r” (R) in front of the USB Device name. Examples: – “ /dev/usbdrive” becomes “ /dev/ rusbdrive” – “ /dev/sdb” becomes “ /dev/ rsdb“.

The process will take a little bit. Once done, eject the USB drive properly and continue with Step 3 MacOS X Apple users will have it much easier – no decompression needed. A small application I created for Raspberry Pi users, called, can be used for this purpose (as pointed out by Jan). You can find more details on in if interested.

You can download it for free from Tweaking 4All. DOWNLOAD - ApplePi-Baker Platform: Mac OS X Filename: ApplePi-Baker.zip Version: 1.9.4b Size: 3.0 MiB Date: September 30, 2017 After downloading and unzipping the application, start it and your Admin (sudo) password will be asked. Enter you Admin password and select the USB Drive from the drive list. CAUTION: Make sure to select the right drive, since it will be completely overwritten! Next step is to click on the “ Restore Backup” button, which allows you to select the.ZIP file you just downloaded. On a decent computer and a good USB Stick this should only take a minute.

After completion your Mac may display a message that the USB drive is not initialized, just click “ Ignore“. Eject the USB Drive properly (use the eject button in, next to the drive list) and continue with Step 3. MacOS X ApplePi-Baker – User Interface Step 3: Boot your AppleTV and Restore AppleTV OS Power down your (i.e. Jank the cord).

Insert the USB pendrive into your and power the up. Press and hold the “ MENU” and the “ +” buttons on the remote as soon as you see the orange light, on the front of your, light up.

When you see activity on your USB Stick (if it has a light for that): let go of the remote buttons. After a while, you’ll see the OpenElec logo and after a short wait, the “ OpenELEC AppleTV Factory Restore” message, which gives you 30 seconds to bail. After the 30 seconds, a few information messages will appear and finally your will reboot.

Once rebooted, the will ask for your preferred language. At that first boot a “ Apple TV Recovery” message will appear. Select “ Factory Restore” and in the next screen confirm that you want to “ Restore” Restore might take a minute or so and after that your AppleTV boots as if it was new.

I was hopeful. The Apple TV seemed to respond.

It rebooted with the apple logo, it asked me for language and then whether I wanted to restart, or restore factory settings. I chose the latter, and then it entered this cycle, where it came back to the language option, and then choosing the factory settings, forever. If I chose restart, it would take me to the same menu again. So I tried unplugging the flash drive, and plugging the ethernet, didn’t work, but then it got me to some weird point where it stays forever, as in a lymbo, in what seems to be like the first 3% to 5% of the restore mode (the first chunk of the bar starts coloring white) and it never advances. I try restarting with MENU and – but it comes back to the same point, it never gets past it. I feel like I lost my apple TV forever. Please tell me there is something else I can do.

To be more specific, the OpenElec logo does show up. Then it looks like it’s attempting to update, load, etc. (black screen with a series of white type that repeats over and over again with that I/O message I mentioned. If you’d like the complete error message, let me know. It’s a bit long and it repeats for some time before it just reads “OpenELEC AppleTV Factory Restore”. At that point, it just stays that way.

The reason I’m trying to do this is that my Apple TV is flashing a “?” above the Apple TV when I try to boot. I thought this method would do the trick unless it’s a hardware issue. I appreciate the help.

Hi Steve, Since I have not yet seen this happen, I’d have to guess that the harddisk of your AppleTV is having issues but it’s juts a guess. If you have a 2.5″ harddisk laying around, you could swap those. Or take the one from your AppleTV and plug it into one of those IDE to USB adapters to see if it works properly. I can imagine only 3 I/O issues:. The USB drive has issues, but you see the OpenElec logo so that seems fine. Internet/Network I/O, but that’s not being used with this method. Internal harddrive shot, and that seems the only remaining issue.

Hi Paul, the partition on your AppleTV drive cannot be read under Windows, unless you have specific file-system extensions installed under Windows. I’m not 100% sure which Linux file system is being used, but most likely something like ext2 or ext3, which Windows natively does not support. The USB stick that you prepare in this article will handle the partitioning and formatting of your AppleTV’s hard-disk. You can use another (larger) 2.5″ Harddisk or for example (like I did) a 2.5″ SSD drive. I have found that when the first time fails, the following might help:.

Try a different USB stick. Try the USB stick again (so try to do the recovery one more time). Be patient (some actions take a little time). Make sure your AppleTV harddisk is actually functional (i.e.

If you get the “OpenElec” message, then I think it’s safe to assume that the USB stick is working correctly. With a total of 3 HDD’s, I’d assume that at least one of them should work, right? Not using the AppleTV (you’re working with the silver 1st generation model right?) for 6-12 months should not break it, unless it was stored oddly (i.e.

Way to cold, way to hot, or way to humid). I have never heard of a cable being broken, but it might be worthwhile to swap it with another cable, if you have one laying around. It’s hard to diagnose the problem at a distance hans. Never feel stupid Paul we’ve all had situations like this.

As for the password; there should be no password question, so in your case I assume that removing the USB stick might work to connect a keyboard (it’s most likely “openelec”). But again: there should be no password question. I suspect that the installation script crashes seriously and just jumps to a regular start up instead. This make me believe that there are some hardware issues with your AppleTV – most likely issues with the harddrive. I know that writing down all the errors is impossible, but try to see if it generates some kind of mount or disk errors.

Those would point to an issue with the harddrive. Hi Robert, Please post comments either in English, Dutch or German.

Google assumes you wrote in Spanish, the translation: “ I tried installing several times but all I see is the logo of OpenELEC and thence to the black screen, the retreat and only apple logo appears but nothing happens I can do in advance thank you very much, greetings.“ Please look at the previously posted comments concerning this issue. I’d start with v3 but you most certainly could try v2 as well (it will update then to v3 if you choose to do so). Seems your USB stick boots OK, maybe the HDD of your AppleTV is defective, or the image to the USB drive didn’t go well. It’s also worth trying, where the image will be downloaded during install (wired network recommended). I am likely going to come off a s real dumb ass here but please be patient as i am new to all this stuff. I have an apple tv 1 and it has been jail broke and crystalbuntu and openelec installed. However, it is not working right so I am trying to factory reset it but it is set up as a linux based program.

I need to make changes to the programming (lines of code) to allow me to do this. The apple tv wants me to enter an openelec login but there is no keyboard. Is there any way to set up a keyboard wirelessly to enter the data. Is there a zip file that has the changes in it already for a linux based system? Hi Cayjungrl! We all are, or have been, noobs at some point. So don’t feel bad about that When restoring your 1st generation AppleTV as described above, it should not ask for a OpenElec password.

So that indicates that something is going wrong. First thing I’d do is simply try again, if you haven’t done so already. If that failed: the most common “issues” I have seen are: – Download corrupted (I have not found a pattern yet when and how this happens) – USB Stick not “flashed” properly – AppleTV Harddisk defective. Now, the first two are easy to remedy: Download the image again, flash another USB stick, and try again.

The 3rd issue, which appears pretty common unfortunately, can only be resolved by testing another 2.5″ IDE harddisk, I actually replaced my with a 32Gb SSD (IDE/PATA), a from Amazon, but those appear no longer available. A 32Gb drive can be found for less than $50 – and since all my video resides on my NAS, I did not need a large drive. Also note that an SSD will make the AppleTV faster and keeps it cooler too I assume you’re having a CrystalHD in your AppleTV, in that case I’d look at OpenElec. Unfortunately, the 1st Generation of AppleTV is no longer supported with new builds (the last version for the ATV is OpenElec 4.2.1).

When I rebooted the ATV into the OpenElec USB-flash drive, I didn’t get errors, but it clearly booted into some “OpenElec” version of.nix, ending with the prompt: OpenElec login: The one thing I changed from your instructions was that I dumped the factoryrestore3.img file to the USB stick by the following command: dd if=factoryrestore3.img of=i: (I was using the excellent ‘rawwrite port’ of gnu dd to Windows from ). In the end, i went back and used Win3diskimager (whatever — the utility you recommend above), and the usb stick worked just fine. Is there some reason why using dd would create and improperly formed USB stick? Thanks scott Scott Petrack. Thank you for the help. This was the only place I found to tell me how to upgrade my Apple TV 1G hard drive using my Windows PC. The gray cover on my Apple TV tore no matter how careful I was being.

It’s on the bottom and I intend to keep it til it dies, so no big problem. I did find that I had to flash my USB drive a second time making sure that Win32 Disk Imager was ‘Run As Administrator’ under Windows 7 Pro 64 bit.

Maybe doing this will help someone avoid a second flashing. Doing this allowed the Apple TV to complete the Factory Restore to the new hard drive without further issues. Hi, thanks for your tutorial. I currently find myself with a trusty 160gb ATV which I think is failing me, (gets stuck in menu items, light flashing when using remote, unresponsive). I’ve done a factory reset a few times. On occasion it just sticks at the language selection screen, other times it fully loads and then everything becomes unresponsive again. I did have ATV flash installed but this was wiped when I did a factory reset.

I’ll be straight. I’ve never ever changed a hard drive in anything, or opened it up so please forgive my ignorance. I’ve done plenty of jailbreaking devices so am willing to give anything a try. Assuming my hard drive is at fault, is it simply a case of buying a new PATA drive. Opening up the ATV.

Atv Usb Creator 3.0.2 Windows

Taking the old one out. Putting the new drive in and booting it up with your USB stick method? Do I need to do anything with new drive before I install it? Or can I simply replace the old with new and boot up? Sorry if anything I have asked is really obvious or stupid. Any help is greatly appreciated. Regards Paul Paul Shackleton.

In essence it’s a matter of opening the case (which is a little messy when removing the rubber bottom – let the AppleTV run for a while so the bottom gets warm so it comes off easier), locating the PATA drive and replacing it with another one. I’m not 100% sure if just any PATA drive will work, but I had success with replacing it with a cheap PATA SSD – which makes it more quiet, faster en cooler.

Might be helpful for you! Restoring the AppleTV OS can be done as described here. Hope this helps! Well, the drive you’d need should be a PATA IDE drive or SSD – they can be found! If you’re looking for an SSD, than look.

The number of PATA IDE Harddisks available is a little tougher though, I found. I would try to avoid getting an adapter (SATA to PATA) = you might run into space restrictions and incompatibility issues. Like I said: I didn’t even think about checking compatibility and just bought an PATA IDE SSD, plugged it in, recovered as described in this article and I was good to go no need to clone the drive. Hi, let me first say this tut was the first one I have found that explained everything in explicit detail and didn’t assume I was a programmer, so thank you for that!! However I have an interesting predicament, my remote quit working and no app I have installed to my iPhone 4s seems to work either, any suggestions on how I can accomplish the restore when the remote don’t work for my atv and iTunes don’t see the atv? I have tested both remotes on my macbook pro and they work so I know it’s not the battery:-) Thanks much Kohly.

Hi Kohly, thank you very much for the compliment! As for your remote problem; Yes that can be quite tricky indeed. Your remote needs to be synced with your AppleTV, which for the first generation AppleTV should be done by press and hold the Menu and Next/Fast-forward buttons for 6 seconds – AppleTV needs to be on of course, but I’m not 100% sure if it actually needs to “work” to accomplish this. A chainlink appear if syncing worked. Other websites (yes I had to look this up as well) claim that you should press and hold the Menu and the Previous/Rewind (. Hi James, Sorry to hear you’re running into an issue. Which of the images did you use?

Did you use v2, v3 or an OpenElec installation? First thing I’d try, is re-flashing the USB drive. If that still fails, re-download one of the images and try again. If that still fails, consider using another USB stick. Also: could it maybe be that the harddrive of your AppleTV is “dying”?

A few visitors had this happen, where the original hard drive had become very unreliable. I apologize for the seemingly “dumb” solutions, but it has worked for some as you might be able to see in the comments here hans. Hans Get Dougal to buy a 44pin 2.5″ IDE PATA Hard drive to SATA converter adapter connector make sure its a slimline it has IDE on one side and SATA on the other its no thicker than the 2.5 Sata Hard drive reposition the drive in the apple TV1 to allow to fit the converter on the apple IDE Cable you will have to carefully remove the other crimp connector (the cable connector will remain be careful not to remove this )fit a 500Gb or 1 TB hard drive (see my Post on the drive I used) it all fits in neatly if you do this carefully If you like I can send you Photoes of my conversion Ted. Thank you for the information. I tied uploading the two files (Factory restore2/3) on two separate thumb drives.

It seemed finicky to actually get it to work and took me many times. In the end it would go through the black screen about reinstalling and booting but after that nothing would happen.

Still working on the issue Anyone else getting this? Does this system boot with no Hard drive at all? Perhaps a bad hard drive is the issue. – hooked directly into ethernet.

– tried 2 USBs (2.0 in both cases i think) – Files made with Apple PiBaker on El Capitan – signal seems to be coming out of component outs when it does – not the HDMI. (you can get a black and white signal out of the blue connector if you only have one port on your TV as most do) ps. I like how you don’t have to set up an account to write in this post since, lets face it, I probably won’t be on here again. OK, made some progress. It turns out having the HDMI cord plugged in messed things up. It seems to have only connected to the screen initially by the component outs (red green blue connectors).

I don’t have component on my screen so I had the GREEN connector connected to the only port on my projector that is the same as most Tvs have (yellow RCA jack). Sorry, I mentioned this was the blue cable above. If you are doing this set up i suggest you use the component outs or try them if you had the same issue i had. Excuse the sloppy writing, its late. Hello there Hans, I sent you a message from my iPad earlier, and I do not see it posted it, so I am sending it again.

Currently I am trying to replace the hdd on my Apple TV 1, and you mentioned that you had replaced your atv 1 hdd with a small 32Gb ssd and worked in conjunction with a Nas for your media access; my question is, how did you get the atv 1 to see the Nas drive and what brand are you using. Currently I have a Western Digital My book Live Nas where I keep all my media but it is only seen by computers an iOS devices only, no atv. Your info on this subject will be much appreciated. Bilesco Bilesco. Hello Hans, I replaced my diseased atv hdd with a pata 120G ssd hard drive and proceeded to install the atv os version 3.2; had a little delay as the installation got stuck in the section where you chose language, so I decided to use a usb 3 instead and the installation was flawless.

I originally was,going to install a sata 1 tb, but desisted from that idea, due to space limitations when you follow that method. In my case 120G is not enough for all my media, however since I have all my media in a nas I will try to connect it to the atv using Kodi, Thanks an awful lot for your help for all you do. Bilesco Bilesco. All I can say is thanks so much!! This page was a great help, easy step by step and everything I needed for resources was right in the document. My stuck in “failed to restore” recovery mode days are behind me and my Apple TV 1 is back up and running on vs 2.3.1(figured I would try older os and see if I liked it better as I can always update later.) The only thing I at first stumbled with was because I tried just copying the unzipped.img file to my thumb drive, nothing was happening on powerup.

Then went back and downloaded the win32 disk imager and FOLLOWED THE DIRECTIONS. Lol Voila, openelec message displayed and everything went smooth Thank You Thank You Thank You!!!!! Thanks for the response Hans. I would prefer to install OpenElec but I was struggling to do this on my ATV1.

I used the instructions here but when I got to this line (below) I noticed that mine was saying disk2 in the identifier, so I didn’t know how to update the remaining lines of code, so that this would work for disk2 rather than disk1. Diskutil list grep -v disk0 tail +2 e.g. Gunzip -c install-hdd.img.gz sudo dd of=/dev/rdisk1 bs=1m Do I just update “disk1” to “disk2” or do I need to change “1m” to “2m” also? Cheers James James.

Oh yes, I can understand you being hesitant with that, I would be too diskutil list grep -v disk0 tail +2 Could indeed say /dev/disk2 for the USB drive, instead of /dev/disk1. It all depends on how many other drives/partitions are connected. A good thing to look for is the name of the drive. For example, this is what my USB stick, named “LEXAR32GB”, looks like this in terminal (El Capitan 10.11.6 beta): /dev/disk5 (external, physical): #: TYPE NAME SIZE IDENTIFIER 0: FDiskpartitionscheme.32.0 GB disk5 1: DOSFAT32 LEXAR32GB 32.0 GB disk5s1 Which is “/dev/disk5”. The steps for you (/dev/disk2) after “diskutil list” then should be: diskutil unmountDisk /dev/disk2 Finally we use ‘dd’ to write the image file to the USB key. Notice we are using /dev/ rdisk2 instead of /dev/ disk2 (this is a little faster to write). You will need to enter the password for your user account when prompted: gunzip -c install-hdd.img.gz sudo dd of=/dev/rdisk2 bs=1m the equivalent command for a USB install would be: gunzip -c install-usb.img.gz sudo dd of=/dev/rdisk2 bs=1m Uncompressing and writing the image to the USB key will take 1-2 minutes depending on the speed of the USB key.

Once USB creation has completed you can ignore the error message about the disk being unreadable (OS X cannot read an AppleTV recovery partition) and you eject the USB: diskutil eject /dev/disk2 How is OSCM running for you? Besides the potential Audio issue. Hi John, The “GetInfo” is a mistake on my end, I had not updated the version number in the plist. For the correct version number look at the window title of ApplePi-Baker (which at this time should say 1.9.4). By the way: downloading ApplePi-Baker from different source is at your own risk. You should always get the latest version from.

As for the “untrusted” message: Go to the Apple menu - System Preferences - Security and Privacy. There you have to set “Allow Apps downloaded from” to “Anywhere”. Maybe in the future I’ll sign up for a developers account with Apple. Unfortunately, they charge $99/year for that, and with the current advertising and donations, I can barely keep the website running, and at this time I’d rather not charge for the applications I create. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with, and thanks again for bringing the wrong version number in the plist to my attention! Hi, I have been trying the Mac process multiple times over the past two days now with multiple different branded USB sticks and have also now tried using V2 and V3, and each time I get to exactly the same point as Joe A above, namely I am able to see the Apple Logo appear, select Language, and then Restore to Apple Factory settings which then starts but the progress bar stays static after just a small tip of white shows at the beginning of the progress bar under the Apple logo.

If I leave it long enough it will then re-cycle to the same point. It’s almost as if there is no Apple TV 1 Image to restore from the USB stick. Any ideas about what else I could try to restore the original Apple TV 1 image before I just end up binning the hardware? I have been able to update the 1 gen ATV. I continue to experience issues with the device freezing: whether making a selection from a menu, or navigating across the top menu selections, the device stops responding. This was occurring before the update, and is why I performed a reinstall of the system. After the reinstall, now when selecting to watch a movie trailer, about 21 seconds into watching any trailer the video freezes and does not play anymore.

I can press the menu button to go back to the iTunes store, but cannot return to the top menu, at this point the device does not do anything. Trying to understand if this may be a sign of a hard drive failure. Running the internal diagnostics, does not mention any problems with hardware. Not understanding how to correct the freezing problem, I have installed the refresh about four times with the same freezing taking place. Understanding that it potential could be a hard drive issue, would any of these work? Also, if it does not sound to you like a drive problem, would you have a suggestion as to what to check next? Thank you for your help.

I enjoy using this device and hate to lose functionality. I have started to consider investing the money instead into a current Mac mini as opposed to repairing older technology. Any suggestions are appreciated. Hi Marvin, the first thing I actually would look at is the network connectivity.

– If you’re using WiFi: Try using a wired ethernet instead. I have used WiFi in the past, and especially with older equipment (like the 1st gen ATV), found that wired networking is simply just faster and more reliable. – If that doesn’t make a difference; check out your Internet speed (if you’re viewing online content).

Take you ATV to a friend or family member and see how it performs there. If this would be harddisk related, you could always: 1) Run a full harddisk scan, by connecting it to a PC (using for example a USB to ATA adapter). 2) The disks you list are SATA, which uses a different connector than the antique ATA or PATA connector found in the ATV. You might want to look for a 2.5″ PATA SSD (here an ). I’d choose a 64Gb model if available, I have no idea if the 32Gb would be offering enough space. Thank you Hans for the suggestion on trying another network. I have found this at Amazon though trying to confirm that it is PATA.

I would prefer to get drive with at least to replace the current drive if I go that way after the network testing: Is your suggestion to get a 64gb and then connect an external drive to house all of my movies? Would this be connected using the USB port on the ATV? As you mention, it could very well be a network issue, seems the provider service drops out intermittently as I found out last night. I have been connected to the home power line using ethernet power adaptors while I have been troubleshooting as the service port coming into the house resides in another room and I did not want to run a direct network cable.

I very much appreciate your troubleshooting this with me. Hi Marvin, there is nothing wrong with picking a direct replacement for the drive. A SSD drive would be faster, but if you’d like to store movies on it, then you’re probably better of (considering price and availability). In all honesty; I don’t know if an external drive would be recognized by AppleTV OS (I kind-a doubt that it would work).

As for the network test: Even if it’s just for testing, try using a regular network cable. My experiences with Ethernet Power Adapters is mediocre at best, and it would be best to eliminate all possible sources of problems during a test. This way we can at least determine if the ATV is the problem, or not. Hans, After reinstalling the v.3 and v.2 a total of four times on Sunday, I have reinstalled v.3 today. Connecting directly to the internet modem seems to have cleared up whatever issue with the playback of movie trailers. Though trying playback with wi-fi afterwards, I was able to get the same ability to view the trailers in the entirety.

Cannot guess whatever was going on, though now the device is acting as if there was no issues with it, and I am syncing my movies library. Previously before trying the updates this past weekend, the device would freeze and stop responding to input or selections of menus. Only one movie caused a freezing of playback, otherwise all my movies played with no issues. After all the effort this past weekend, I am wondering what is it that a direct connection via ethernet to the internet modem performs. Since it does not now appear to be an issue with the hard drive, it is a mystery to me, though both ethernet and wi-fi connections appear to work equally well now.

Thank you for your suggestions and the ability to create the usb sticks. Thanks for the input. I have taken the HDD out and connected it up to a Linux box, the HDD appears to be OK, and is reporting no issues. All the SMART stats are also good. I am starting to head towards an issue with the ATV1 power supply, it is as if the power supply kick in for a short time and then switches off.

You can hear a power on, power off hum from the power unit inside. Tried 3 different USB sticks and a couple of SD cards in USB adapters all with no joy. Exactly the same thing happens either with or without the drive connected. I just cannot get into recovery mode.

Maybe i will try to puck up a cheap replacement on ebay and move my existing HDD into it. Thanks for your reply Dels. Hi Dels, Power supply, hmm, definitely a possibility, even though I have never seen this to be an issue. I’m not sure how attached you are to your ATV (I really liked mine), but I replaced it with an Android box. If you pick one with the Amlogic S905 (do NOT get the S912 models – they are not supported), on which you can run LibreElec (OpenElec spinoff, running a bare minimum embedded Linux with Kodi pre-installed).

I got mine from, for $39 last December, the model I have is the “K1 Plus”, bet there are several models available. I tested mine first by booting from an SD card, and after having used it successfully for a while, I replaced the Android OS with LibreElec completely works great! Hi Hans, I tried the method described above but unfortunately my Apple TV 1 only shows a screen with an Apple logo for a few seconds and then goes black and after a few seconds shows the logo again. In parallel the LED on the ATV front is blinking orange.

It seems as if the ATV tries to reboot from the USB stick (at least the LED of the USB stick lights up and shows activity) but then goes back again. Meanwhile I tried both Software versions a couple of times and also in total 4 different USB sticks but I don’t get any further. Any ideas, what the issue could be and ideally how to solve it? Thanks Christoph Christoph. Hi Hans, thx.

For the fast response. I created the USB sticks as you described it above, i.e. I downloaded the ATV restore version 3. And version 2.

Respectively on my MAC-Book and then moved them to two different USB sticks; then downloaded the Apple-Pi Baker and used it on both USB sticks. The only difference to your description above I noticed was that I did not have to eject the USB sticks after I ran the Apple-Pi as they were already rejected and during the conversion process from the.zip to the.img file, I couldn’t really see any progress on the “progress bar”. Could that be the issue, that the file on the USB stick is not in the correct format, so that the ATV can not read it, when it is restarting? Hi Hans, yes it looks like it was hiding the.zip.

However, I used the APB now to restore the two respective versions to two different USB sticks. Having inserted and restarted the ATV the OpenElec logo showed up and then disappeared after a while. Subsequently, the TV displayed some error messages (disk error.), which didn’t show up long enough for me to take a picture or note of the exact wording.

Afterwards, the LED on the ATV started blinking orange again. Thus, I believe the USB stick is working as I get to the Open Elec logo but afterwards the ATV seems to hang up again and is then trying to restart from the hard disk. I already tried both software versions and multiple USB sticks, hence it looks like my ATV hard drive is damaged, or do you have any other idea what it could be?

I’m sorry to hear that Sounds like your harddrive in the ATV is not working properly. If you happen to have an ATA 2.5″ harddisk laying around, then you could test with that – ut I’m sure most of us don’t have a spare like that. I myself replaced mine with a PATA SSD (here is a ). A regular PATA harddisk (2.5″) would work as well. Just for the record; since those tiny Android boxes are the same price or sometimes even cheaper than a harddrive, then I suggest getting one of those instead.

(see, please stick to the S905 or S905X processor models, don’t take any other processor model – if you want to run in the future, then the newer exotic processors will not work – I’ve tried the with succes in the past). Hope this is helpful!.

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